Why kretek – ‘no ordinary cigarette’ – thrives in Indonesia

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hundreds of workers wearing red caps bend over long tables, rolling cigarettes
Marina Welker/Provided Workers hand roll kretek in a "living factory" at House of Sampoerna, a kretek museum in the East Javanese port city of Surabaya. Kretek museums present the history of the commodity in a nostalgic and flattering light and frame kretek manufacturers as benevolent patrons.